Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

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jimbobcook
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Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by jimbobcook » Mon May 04, 2020 5:29 am

Morning All,

Firstly i'd like to apologise for anything you see in this thread that may offend any experienced model crafts men/women as i'm very new to this and during lockdown i've had a quick go at my first custom build for a company I like due to their friendly approach and all round nice guys...

I am in need of a little help if possible, I am looking at making a stock 1:43 Arosa into this... a copy of the 550bhp 1.9 diesel beast.

Image
To this
Image

As you can see by the above it's quite a drastic change and maybe a bit of a challenge for a first build but I see a lot of straight lines etc so I may be ok...

My question to anyone looking is the picture shows a flap on the bonnet which I think is going to be right where the screw is for attaching the base. Does anyone have any ideas how to make this look like it's still there or do it and still make it work and not take the screw functionality away...

Also what tools would you use to make said flap?

So far I have most things ordered or made by a 3D printer person I sometimes use.

Here's a few pics of what I have

Image
Image
Image

Made my first drastic cuts at the weekend for the rear wheels
Image

Hope someone has some thoughts / ideas

Cheers

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[KRAFTIG]
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Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by [KRAFTIG] » Mon May 04, 2020 8:07 am

Welcome to DS, sorry I can't help. There are a few "modifers" here, hopefully they can chime in.

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jimbobcook
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Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by jimbobcook » Mon May 04, 2020 8:12 am

[KRAFTIG] wrote:
Mon May 04, 2020 8:07 am
Welcome to DS, sorry I can't help. There are a few "modifers" here, hopefully they can chime in.
Thanks very much, I thought before winging it i'd get some advice :)

FrenchToast
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:43 pm

Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by FrenchToast » Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am

By "flap for the bonnet," do you mean the air outlet behind the grille? Also, be aware that when you are cutting the bodywork you should wear a mask. The castings are usually potmetal with a high amount of zinc. Any airborne metal particles are bad, but zinc is especially harmful.

For the bonnet duct, first put some tape and draw where it would sit, and see how close the screw post is. You may have enough room where you can cut some metal out but not have post fall off. You might be able to shift it a few mm to get it where it clears but still looks correct. To actually form the duct I would first cover the hood in masking tape. Then mark the outline. Drill a small hole where the front of the duct is. Then drill a bigger hole (full width of the duct) aiming forward in order to not detach the screw post and also to form the bottom of the duct. Use a set of files (especially square and triangular profiles) to get the shape the way you want it. If you aim to not repaint the car, this part is going to be very tricky. If you don't mind repainting, you can use Milliput to fill in the hole in the screw post or any mistakes.

Apart from that, there are a few other choices. If you want to keep the same screw location, you can create a little "Y" type assembly. The bottom of the Y would be for the screw, and the upper legs would be epoxied to the underside of the hood on either side of the duct.

Or, you can move the screw back slightly. Simply epoxy a post to the underside of the hood behind the duct. Or, you can put the screw wherever you would like. But, you need a new hole in the chassis. Countersinking the hole would be tricky due to the thickness of the material.

You may find that the extend of the wheel/tire modifications may even require a new custom chassis, in which case you can make it out of aluminum or plastic as thick as you want, and put the holes wherever you want. You could epoxy small nuts to the airdam, a long post to the rear of the hood - there are a few possibilities. Instead of a screw you could fashion a clip, but that requires some fairly tight tolerances and could prove tricky.

The rear fender extensions you could make from styrene. For the rear spoiler I would try a thin gauge aluminum as you can bend it. The spoiler supports you can try a paperclip - cut the straight pieces out (don't try to bend it straight). If that doesn't work, try music wire. It is stiff steel thin-gauge wire. You probably can't get any that is correctly thin enough, but the music wire would stay straight. A styrene rod would likely bow/bend over time, especially if you accidentally touch it.

The wheels and tires are going to be tricky. Look at 1:43 drag cars to see if you can find anything similar. Just reverse them since it is FWD.

I would use Milliput for the front fender flares. I do not know the best primer and paint to use on styrene and the Milliput. If you don't want to repaint the model you can skip the front flares and just carefully enlarge the fender opening (it looks enlarged). Also carefully cut the notch at the bottom rear of the fenders. If you are careful you can make sure all the bare metal is on the underside, and touch it up with yellow paint.

The interior could be tricky. I assume the black canister is a NOS bottle, it doesn't look like an oil tank. Try a 1:18 scale fire bottle, could be the right size!

As for the other parts, see what you can scavenge from existing 1:43 circuit cars. Minichamps made a lot of 1:43 DTM cars - they could have some good interiors to use. I think most of the aftermarket 1:43 parts are in the slot car hobby, so look there too.

For custom decals, the ideal solution is to have a professional (with high-end printers) print custom waterslide decals for you. They have printers that can print at the resolution you would need. There are a few vendors who can do this, again look in the slot car hobby. Order multiple copies of each decal as you'll inevitably tear a few. The decals are ideally placed on a base coat, then clearcoated over. However, there are ways to apply them to a clearcoated body (i.e., if you opt to not repaint it). MicroSol has some solutions (literally) that you can use to prep the surface and seal the decal. However, if you choose to not repaint it, I would investigate sanding the paint, applying all the decals and then applying another layer of clear. Remember to have multiple spare decals if you need to redo it!

For misc details you'd be amazed what people find around the house. Plastic silverware, lego pieces, pens, paperclips, etc.

One of the first things you should decide is if you want to repaint it or not. Repainting allows you several liberties during modification, but also requires good primer, sanding, paint, clear, etc.

I know that's a bit of a stream-of-thought, hopefully it makes sense.

Somebody might have other ideas but that's all I can think of.

Do not underestimate the amount of work and frustration it can be. You will get very frustrated (especially at 1:43), so be patient!

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jimbobcook
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Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by jimbobcook » Wed May 06, 2020 7:15 am

FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
By "flap for the bonnet," do you mean the air outlet behind the grille? Also, be aware that when you are cutting the bodywork you should wear a mask. The castings are usually potmetal with a high amount of zinc. Any airborne metal particles are bad, but zinc is especially harmful.
Thanks for your reply, yeah I use eye and a breathable mask for all my stuff as the videos i'd seen had the same. It's more of a flap so I need to bend it down some how, there is a flap on the bonnet and a gap further back at the top left of the bonnet, part of me thinks that I cannot just get a mini chisel and make the grooves that way but my logical brain is different to the practical one haha
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
Then drill a bigger hole (full width of the duct) aiming forward in order to not detach the screw post and also to form the bottom of the duct. Use a set of files (especially square and triangular profiles) to get the shape the way you want it. If you aim to not repaint the car, this part is going to be very tricky. If you don't mind repainting, you can use Milliput to fill in the hole in the screw post or any mistakes.
I will be stripping and repainting for sure, these models sometimes come with a rather thick coat of paint that sometimes covers the door handles lol I have some air drying clay type stuff which seems like the same sort of stuff as Milliput but I doubt it is as good quality wise. Yeah i've got plenty of tape available, I think looking at it in more detail the screw hole is definitely over where I need to make the flap so part of me thinks I should paint on the flap to save hassle and multiple models as they don't make these anymore so spares for me are not cheap (for a beginner like me)
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
You may find that the extend of the wheel/tire modifications may even require a new custom chassis, in which case you can make it out of aluminum or plastic as thick as you want, and put the holes wherever you want. You could epoxy small nuts to the airdam, a long post to the rear of the hood - there are a few possibilities. Instead of a screw you could fashion a clip, but that requires some fairly tight tolerances and could prove tricky.
I mocked up the wheels and the fronts seem to fit ok the rears will be interesting, i've got an axle and the rear shocks/springs ready to be painted but fixing them to the frame somehow is a little beyond me... I think I should of gone with a bonnet scoop model first as a first project haha I have a lot of patience and little things like this is normal as I used to paint Warhammer models back in the day I just don't have the expertise on how to get round problems.
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
The rear fender extensions you could make from styrene. For the rear spoiler I would try a thin gauge aluminum as you can bend it. The spoiler supports you can try a paperclip - cut the straight pieces out (don't try to bend it straight). If that doesn't work, try music wire. It is stiff steel thin-gauge wire. You probably can't get any that is correctly thin enough, but the music wire would stay straight. A styrene rod would likely bow/bend over time, especially if you accidentally touch it.
I have some black flexible thin plastic which I was planning to get the rear fenders and slightly thicker stuff for the hood, this model will be sealed in it's case so I don't need it to be ever lasting just to look good so to speak as it will be on show in their shop. As for the spoiler wire that's a good shout, I have some small paper clips which may work, also thought about jewellers wire as that is bendy but not too much.
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
I would use Milliput for the front fender flares. I do not know the best primer and paint to use on styrene and the Milliput. If you don't want to repaint the model you can skip the front flares and just carefully enlarge the fender opening (it looks enlarged). Also carefully cut the notch at the bottom rear of the fenders. If you are careful you can make sure all the bare metal is on the underside, and touch it up with yellow paint.
Yeah your idea seems good with making a new one and cutting a notch, how would suggest making them so they're as close to identical for each side without a mould?
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
The interior could be tricky. I assume the black canister is a NOS bottle, it doesn't look like an oil tank. Try a 1:18 scale fire bottle, could be the right size!
This is one thing i've struggled with, yes it's a NOS bottle indeed. eBay didn't have much for me in terms of sizes or the right shape etc so I did think about getting one 3D printed but at large cost I imagine, I didn't look at 1:18 scale as I think I stopped at 32 I think, i'll have another go.
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
As for the other parts, see what you can scavenge from existing 1:43 circuit cars. Minichamps made a lot of 1:43 DTM cars - they could have some good interiors to use. I think most of the aftermarket 1:43 parts are in the slot car hobby, so look there too.
I have a few parts that I can use, i've got thin wire and a gearbox handle with seat and i'm using Jewellers wire for the case inside so I don't need to reply on joins etc 6m of it allows me a lot of test runs. Dials I have on order as I found a little kit for some and the rest I think I may try and make myself if I can.
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
However, there are ways to apply them to a clearcoated body (i.e., if you opt to not repaint it). MicroSol has some solutions (literally) that you can use to prep the surface and seal the decal. However, if you choose to not repaint it, I would investigate sanding the paint, applying all the decals and then applying another layer of clear. Remember to have multiple spare decals if you need to redo it!
Decals I have a guy in the states who has a decal business and his stuff seems good enoiugh but i'd much prefer UK based ones to save postage and shipping time etc I have the 3 bottles from Microsol and they work magic! using clear coat over decals how do you get around stuff that shouldn't be shiny like a seatbelt for example?
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
One of the first things you should decide is if you want to repaint it or not. Repainting allows you several liberties during modification, but also requires good primer, sanding, paint, clear, etc.
I'm still looking for a good paint stripper in the UK that someone hasn't already bought for their house during lock down! the last one from wilko's I bought took an age to strip it, i've heard brake fluid works... the wife has Acetone for her nails would that work do you think?
FrenchToast wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 12:02 am
Do not underestimate the amount of work and frustration it can be. You will get very frustrated (especially at 1:43), so be patient!
Thank you ever so much for your reply, it's been most helpful! I will try and get some more pictures up so things make sense a little more and keep you all updated.

Cheers

FrenchToast
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:43 pm

Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by FrenchToast » Wed May 06, 2020 11:02 pm

jimbobcook wrote:
Wed May 06, 2020 7:15 am
Thanks for your reply, yeah I use eye and a breathable mask for all my stuff as the videos i'd seen had the same. It's more of a flap so I need to bend it down some how, there is a flap on the bonnet and a gap further back at the top left of the bonnet, part of me thinks that I cannot just get a mini chisel and make the grooves that way but my logical brain is different to the practical one haha

I will be stripping and repainting for sure, these models sometimes come with a rather thick coat of paint that sometimes covers the door handles lol I have some air drying clay type stuff which seems like the same sort of stuff as Milliput but I doubt it is as good quality wise. Yeah i've got plenty of tape available, I think looking at it in more detail the screw hole is definitely over where I need to make the flap so part of me thinks I should paint on the flap to save hassle and multiple models as they don't make these anymore so spares for me are not cheap (for a beginner like me)

I mocked up the wheels and the fronts seem to fit ok the rears will be interesting, i've got an axle and the rear shocks/springs ready to be painted but fixing them to the frame somehow is a little beyond me... I think I should of gone with a bonnet scoop model first as a first project haha I have a lot of patience and little things like this is normal as I used to paint Warhammer models back in the day I just don't have the expertise on how to get round problems.

I have some black flexible thin plastic which I was planning to get the rear fenders and slightly thicker stuff for the hood, this model will be sealed in it's case so I don't need it to be ever lasting just to look good so to speak as it will be on show in their shop. As for the spoiler wire that's a good shout, I have some small paper clips which may work, also thought about jewellers wire as that is bendy but not too much.

Yeah your idea seems good with making a new one and cutting a notch, how would suggest making them so they're as close to identical for each side without a mould?

This is one thing i've struggled with, yes it's a NOS bottle indeed. eBay didn't have much for me in terms of sizes or the right shape etc so I did think about getting one 3D printed but at large cost I imagine, I didn't look at 1:18 scale as I think I stopped at 32 I think, i'll have another go.

I have a few parts that I can use, i've got thin wire and a gearbox handle with seat and i'm using Jewellers wire for the case inside so I don't need to reply on joins etc 6m of it allows me a lot of test runs. Dials I have on order as I found a little kit for some and the rest I think I may try and make myself if I can.

Decals I have a guy in the states who has a decal business and his stuff seems good enoiugh but i'd much prefer UK based ones to save postage and shipping time etc I have the 3 bottles from Microsol and they work magic! using clear coat over decals how do you get around stuff that shouldn't be shiny like a seatbelt for example?

I'm still looking for a good paint stripper in the UK that someone hasn't already bought for their house during lock down! the last one from wilko's I bought took an age to strip it, i've heard brake fluid works... the wife has Acetone for her nails would that work do you think?

Thank you ever so much for your reply, it's been most helpful! I will try and get some more pictures up so things make sense a little more and keep you all updated.

Cheers
Don't use a chisel. You'll end up warping the metal and denting the heck out of the bonnet. You could probably do it if you are very careful, but I wouldn't recommend it. A model car is basically the lowest grade, crappiest metal alloy you can find. It's the metal equivalent of particle board. You can usually bend it once, but bending it back usually breaks it. I would cut out the square in the hood (drill hole first, then square the edges with a files). Then bend a small piece of aluminum or styrene and epoxy it to the underside. Same material for the side walls of the duct. Then use a tiny amount of filler to smooth it out.

For the paint stripper, a lot of stuff works. I rarely strip paint, so I'm not the best to ask. A lot of people use "aircraft paint stripper." Not sure what aircraft have to do with it, but that's the general name. Brake fluid might work but you'll be doing a lot of work. I don't remember if acetone works on the enamel based paint the car is probably coated in. If it does, I think it's still a lot of work, and a lot of acetone. As with any stripper you need heavy duty rubber gloves, mask, etc. Don't want any on your skin.

As for seeing if a body shop can dip it in a bath, IDK. That depends on your area and if you can exchange stuff during the virus.

For the fender flares it's really all in the eye. That's how most one-offs are done on real cars. They only use a coordinate measuring machine if they can afford to rent one and make up the cost by making hundreds of parts.

It's kind of a guess-and-check deal. You need to form it, then spray a coat of primer so the surfaces react the same way to reflections. Then you'll make some fixes, then spray again with primer. Since the car is so small, you could compare each side with a small mirror - that way you can compare left to right quite easily.

Be careful though, if you need to strip the paint again any paint stripper will melt the filler work.

For the NOS bottle, a 1:18 or 1:24 fire bottle might be close. You may need to shorten it a bit and maybe cut off the nozzle, but that's easier then printing one. I've used Legende Miniatures, Nowak, etc. in the past for 1:18 parts. No idea how many of the hobby shops, especially the smaller independent ones, are operating right now.

Decals, I don't know anybody in the UK. I'm sure there are, I just don't know any. When I printed some I think I used someone in Michigan? They came out great. But the end result depends greatly on the quality of the files you send! I had many correspondence with the printer for the ideal file type, color mode, etc. etc. You need Photoshop or similar if you want to send a good quality file. You need to find quality images of all the company decals you want and put them on a page. You might need a translucent background with a PNG file. Depends on the printer.

For decals that you don't want shiny you can use a matte clear coat. Or simply use the Microsol if it is a small spot that isn't on the exterior paint. If the surface is flexible, I don't know what is best. I called Microsol because the directions were unclear (at least back when I ordered it) - they had a very helpful support team. They can probably advise what is best for a flexible surface.

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jimbobcook
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Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by jimbobcook » Fri Oct 09, 2020 2:45 am

So some updates on this build (sorry forgot about this)

So I stripped the car and I do like the bare metal look which is a shame!
Image

Then mocked up the wheels and a rear spoiler I made up quickly
Image

Then got a dremmel out for drilling holes and used some smaller files to get things smoother (the square one needs some help lol)
Image

Then filled in the holes from the side mirrors and aerial
Image

Test fitted the exhaust out the bonnet
Image

Then gave it a spray paint in official paint colours and painte any black bits that I needed
Image

Mocked up some rear fender things as they're definitely not stock ones haha
Image

Then painted the tyre wall writing which was fun...
Image

Then mocked up the start of the roll cage and shiny black boot space
Image

Painted the rims
Image

Painted the NOS and seat
Image

Added extra struts on the roll cage and filled in some gaps from the old seats
Image

Tried to make a front bumper thing... need to try and get the angle right as it bends round.
Image

That's it for now, just ordered the decals and number plates so get them on and carry on with the interior

Cheers

FrenchToast
Posts: 53
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:43 pm

Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by FrenchToast » Tue Oct 20, 2020 7:33 pm

Looks good! Wheels turned out to be a good match.

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jimbobcook
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Re: Custom 1:43 Arosa build...

Post by jimbobcook » Sat Oct 24, 2020 2:09 pm

FrenchToast wrote:
Tue Oct 20, 2020 7:33 pm
Looks good! Wheels turned out to be a good match.
Thanks very much, yeah the guy who did the wheels did a great job! I need to get into 3d printing for sure haha

I'm finding the interior harder than the exterior as I have to out the shell back on to make sure things like roll cages fit but I'll get there...

Cheers

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