Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve/modify
- Zondaracer
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- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:11 am
- Location: Friesland, Netherlands
Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve/modify
Already 2 years ago I bought 2 Mondo Motors white Zonda F models with the intention to upgrade them. It is so annoying not to be able to just buy a proper Zonda road model. What Autoart has done with Pagani is epic, but still no F Zonda models.
My first Zonda was rebuilt in the Roadster version and I learned alot from it, the second one will be a white coupe as well, but with much more detailing and improved fit. I hope you enjoy this thread and maybe inspires to start modding as well.
I am aiming for Horacio's personal Zonda, this one:
Already a lot of work was done last year when I was building them side by side. The front was opened and the carbon "grid" on the sills removed.
Also the front holes drilled for the indicator lights.
To get a proper housing for the light milliputty was used:
Exhaust was also already done:
I found out that Pagani's car had a "Cinque" program with the elaborate undertrays and special exhaust system. I will install the "kidney" exhaust and the simpler undertrays as below:
for my future builds I will build the new style tubular mufflers (760RS and 760Ag Roadster)
But I really like the look of the high spoiler on the coupe, so am going to scratchbuild the struts for that. I am thinking about the front spoiler extender plates also because these are a good base to extend the spoiler lip with milliputty (it's now much too short).
Gearbox was Dremel cut from a piece of perspex last year and awaiting installation:
I expect to finish the build in or before the summer because there is less carbon fibre decaling work and the interior does not require that much modification as well.
I am taking a different approach to the build this time. In the end of the assembly of the Roadster I came across many interference issues. Therefore I do a complete rough build up with all important parts and when all fits, do the detailing and paintwork.
First I modified the back end. It is screwed into place but that means you can see the screw hole when looking from the back. I installed 2 small bolts, glued them into place with a spacer and closed the holes with putty:
Ofcourse this meant drilling mounting holes in the body aft part:
It's a pity of the carbon fibre work since I already had finished this back end, but my carbon decaling is going quicker and quicker with less mistakes and also the first sheets of SMS carbon decal I received differ from my new batch.
On the floor I glued strong concave stringers because the diecast body is curved at the underside but the floor is flat. Now the floor follows the body curve.
The canopy is beefed up with microputty for more realism. The interior will become blue.
All stud holes for the windows are filled. I will sand the A frames because the window edge is too wide. A mistake I noticed on the Roadster after finishing it.
All vents were opened on the body and clamshell:
The lower edges were extended with plastic card and filled in to bring them in line again with the upper edge:
The big sill opening is closed with plastic card. Next step is to fill it with micro putty and model an oval intake:
I have placed the doors in line with the clamshell. This means that they sit low on the sill and therefore a huge gap exists between the front fender and the door. Nothing a piece of plastic card and filler can't sort out.
The edge on which the clamshell rests was flattened. There is a casting mistake preventing the clamshell to sit flush:
Gaps are now very small:
Perhaps not visible is the sharp point of the clamshell. It is too rounded on the model.I mix superglue with metal dust to make a strong filler for such repairs.
That's it for now. Coming week more sanding, filling in the sidepod openings and then start rework on the nose. After finishing the roadster I discovered the nose of the model is wrong. The "V" should be sharper and extend more.
All tedious and unglamurous work, but it is the foundation for a sharp looking model.
My first Zonda was rebuilt in the Roadster version and I learned alot from it, the second one will be a white coupe as well, but with much more detailing and improved fit. I hope you enjoy this thread and maybe inspires to start modding as well.
I am aiming for Horacio's personal Zonda, this one:
Already a lot of work was done last year when I was building them side by side. The front was opened and the carbon "grid" on the sills removed.
Also the front holes drilled for the indicator lights.
To get a proper housing for the light milliputty was used:
Exhaust was also already done:
I found out that Pagani's car had a "Cinque" program with the elaborate undertrays and special exhaust system. I will install the "kidney" exhaust and the simpler undertrays as below:
for my future builds I will build the new style tubular mufflers (760RS and 760Ag Roadster)
But I really like the look of the high spoiler on the coupe, so am going to scratchbuild the struts for that. I am thinking about the front spoiler extender plates also because these are a good base to extend the spoiler lip with milliputty (it's now much too short).
Gearbox was Dremel cut from a piece of perspex last year and awaiting installation:
I expect to finish the build in or before the summer because there is less carbon fibre decaling work and the interior does not require that much modification as well.
I am taking a different approach to the build this time. In the end of the assembly of the Roadster I came across many interference issues. Therefore I do a complete rough build up with all important parts and when all fits, do the detailing and paintwork.
First I modified the back end. It is screwed into place but that means you can see the screw hole when looking from the back. I installed 2 small bolts, glued them into place with a spacer and closed the holes with putty:
Ofcourse this meant drilling mounting holes in the body aft part:
It's a pity of the carbon fibre work since I already had finished this back end, but my carbon decaling is going quicker and quicker with less mistakes and also the first sheets of SMS carbon decal I received differ from my new batch.
On the floor I glued strong concave stringers because the diecast body is curved at the underside but the floor is flat. Now the floor follows the body curve.
The canopy is beefed up with microputty for more realism. The interior will become blue.
All stud holes for the windows are filled. I will sand the A frames because the window edge is too wide. A mistake I noticed on the Roadster after finishing it.
All vents were opened on the body and clamshell:
The lower edges were extended with plastic card and filled in to bring them in line again with the upper edge:
The big sill opening is closed with plastic card. Next step is to fill it with micro putty and model an oval intake:
I have placed the doors in line with the clamshell. This means that they sit low on the sill and therefore a huge gap exists between the front fender and the door. Nothing a piece of plastic card and filler can't sort out.
The edge on which the clamshell rests was flattened. There is a casting mistake preventing the clamshell to sit flush:
Gaps are now very small:
Perhaps not visible is the sharp point of the clamshell. It is too rounded on the model.I mix superglue with metal dust to make a strong filler for such repairs.
That's it for now. Coming week more sanding, filling in the sidepod openings and then start rework on the nose. After finishing the roadster I discovered the nose of the model is wrong. The "V" should be sharper and extend more.
All tedious and unglamurous work, but it is the foundation for a sharp looking model.
Last edited by Zondaracer on Thu May 28, 2015 4:27 am, edited 10 times in total.
- Zondaracer
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- Posts: 425
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:11 am
- Location: Friesland, Netherlands
Re: Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve
I let my wife work more, so I can work less and can spend more time on my hobbies. That sounds harsh and like slavery, but it's not. We have our own coffee and tea business and for maximum tax deduction we have to work 1000 hours per person per year minimum in our company. In practice that means I work 3 days a week and my wife 2. Maximum tax deduction means almost paying no tax. win-win situation so to say. Not to mention being in house more and interacting with my kids on a daily basis instead of being the vaguely familiar guy that cuts the meat in the weekend.Lucky13 wrote:Very nice. I wish I had the time to tackle mine.
Re: Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve
An ambitious task, can't wait to see this model completed!
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Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve
amazing attention to all the small details! Bravo! look forward to following your build.
- Zondaracer
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- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:11 am
- Location: Friesland, Netherlands
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve
Thank you. I hope to do something very special with the interior, you'll see!mazspd3jase wrote:amazing attention to all the small details! Bravo! look forward to following your build.
- Zondaracer
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- Posts: 425
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:11 am
- Location: Friesland, Netherlands
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve
Made a small video of the project. Not extremely interesting after the roadster build, but it's just to drag more people to diecastsociety.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqeRmomLGo0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqeRmomLGo0
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve
Awesome video Hans! And thank you for the shout out! You're attention to detail is impeccable, eagerly awaiting more updates on the project.
PS - I've added the "Contributor" badge to your profile. Cheers!
PS - I've added the "Contributor" badge to your profile. Cheers!
- Zondaracer
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- Posts: 425
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:11 am
- Location: Friesland, Netherlands
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F coupe improve
[KRAFTIG] wrote:Awesome video Hans! And thank you for the shout out! You're attention to detail is impeccable, eagerly awaiting more updates on the project.
PS - I've added the "Contributor" badge to your profile. Cheers!
Thank you sir!
- Zondaracer
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- Posts: 425
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:11 am
- Location: Friesland, Netherlands
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F improve/modify
Update 23 February 2015
Just a small update. Been busy with filling and sanding to get the body correct.
Sill intakes smoothed with Millyputty:
The edge still needs to be smoothed after the previous repair broke loose.
Steps to get the nose in shape. It needs to be slightly higher and sharper.
Glued a needle on top to get a sharp V-shape. The nose is built up with metal filler, my own mix of super glue with steel dust.
Filled and sanded:
Now it's time for the lower lip. First quick sketch shows it needs to be extended at least 3mm. You can see the mistake MM made with the lower lip. It drops inwards while it should follow the bonnet line. When looked from the top the lower lip should extend from underneath the bonnet.
When that's done final sanding an a first coat of primer to check for mistakes.
Just a small update. Been busy with filling and sanding to get the body correct.
Sill intakes smoothed with Millyputty:
The edge still needs to be smoothed after the previous repair broke loose.
Steps to get the nose in shape. It needs to be slightly higher and sharper.
Glued a needle on top to get a sharp V-shape. The nose is built up with metal filler, my own mix of super glue with steel dust.
Filled and sanded:
Now it's time for the lower lip. First quick sketch shows it needs to be extended at least 3mm. You can see the mistake MM made with the lower lip. It drops inwards while it should follow the bonnet line. When looked from the top the lower lip should extend from underneath the bonnet.
When that's done final sanding an a first coat of primer to check for mistakes.
Last edited by Zondaracer on Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
- StratosWRC
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Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F improve/modify
Super glue and steel dust. Interesting!
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F improve/modify
Ha!StratosWRC wrote:Super glue and steel dust. Interesting!
- Zondaracer
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Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F improve/modify
It's quite hard material and difficult to rework. But it usually works fine for difficult situations like the nose that is prone to get hit or touched.StratosWRC wrote:Super glue and steel dust. Interesting!
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F improve/modify
You're really putting some effort into improving the model. Nice job!
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F improve/modify
How is the model coming along?? .....waiting to see the latest updates !!
- Zondaracer
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- Posts: 425
- Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:11 am
- Location: Friesland, Netherlands
Re: Diecast Mondo Motors 1/18 Pagani Zonda F improve/modify
I haven't done much last month due to having the flue, but yesterday I completed the body mods, sanded it with 1200grid and will primer all external parts today.renron wrote:How is the model coming along?? .....waiting to see the latest updates !!
I changed the size of the light holes (both lower holes are now 5mm) in the back end and deepened the mid section. I sanded the almost non existing light rings away and will replace them with pieces of styrene tube.
Nose was already shown, but I redid it. Quite difficult part, the V was sharpened but then needs to blend in again with the nose. I expect some rework after priming:
The lower lips was extended and now you get this typical Zonda nose. Also the towing eye cover was imitated:
When I am happy with the primed parts it's time to attack the interior. I thought keeping the original fire wall, but it's wrong. Also the sills will be changed completely.