HealeyWork MKII BT7

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HealeyWorks
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 7:48 pm
Location: Canada

HealeyWork MKII BT7

Post by HealeyWorks » Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:28 pm

Hey guys,

Although I've been messing with 1:1 cars for over a decade... these are my first die-cast mods (unless you count the unfinished f-100 that's been sitting in a box since I was 15). Enjoy!

I already own a Kyosho Austin-Healey MK1-racing proto, but those are now going for crazy prices (400$CAD), and are very hard to find, so I've never been tempted to take it apart. I therefore recently started hunting for the significantly cheaper ERTL MKII model, which is still not an easy find, with prices averaging 120$CAD (I've seen some up to 163$CAD + shipping), for what essentially used to be a budget model.

After missing out on a metallic blue damaged model due to a network error, I managed to win this bright red one for 50$CAD with free shipping after a fierce bidding war.

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The one condition I gave myself when buying this model was that I absolutely had to mess around with it as a fun modding project. I decided to do things in stages.
The plan is to mod it, display it for a bit, and when I get bored with it I'll mod it some more. Each stage will get a little more extreme...

Stage 1: Improving the base model


Pulled everything apart. First step is checking whether I will want to go towards a bumper-less look or not. As you see the worst aspect of this model, by far, are the tires which could fit on the front of a tractor.

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I started with paint details, for which I bought three Humbrol colours: Satin Black, Gold and Steel.

Black:
-lower A-arms
-fan belt
-generator detail
-motor mounts
-blackwash on entire engine, especially on air filters
-detail in between steering wheel spokes
-shifter boot
-miscellaneous bolts, grommets, hoses and carb-top details
-Since it's an older model I used black to hide the huge door hinges and the tabs holding the interior in.

Steel
-exhaust
-drive-shaft & U-joints
-radio knobs and choke
-shift knob and console ash tray
-hand-brake knob
-radiator mesh and cap
-ignition coil, starter and road-draft tube detail
-water neck and hose clamps
-leaf spring retainer clips
-rear bumper mounts
-miscellaneous bolts on sway-bar, oil pan, diff drain plug, lower A-arms, valve cover bolts and cap

Gold
-ignition coil
-road-draft tube
-carb detail and a few bolts here and there
-strategic gold wash on exhaust to simulate oxidation and heat stress

Before and after:

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Added some spark plug wires and an ignition coil wire (don't ask me where I got them) :nice:
P.S. It uses the correct firing order, both on the engine and on the distributor.

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How it looks in the engine bay

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In the real world, the 2+2 BT7 model is much less desirable than the 2-seater BN7, where the body goes up further behind the seats. The majority of BT7 owners fit tonneau covers, that cover up the rear seats and turn them into a storage area/parcel shelf, and also clean up the lines of the passenger area.

Since the interior of this model is probably its second worst feature after the tires, I decided to make a tonneau cover of my own. Although the majority of people would tend to make this out of milliput, I decided to do it my way and use textured vinyl cloth (that I stole from an old pencil case) for a more realistic look.

Tonneau covers aren't just fabric, they have an inner structure made up of a forward arc, intersected by plastic strips called "battens", which is what I tried to replicate with plastic based on reference photos.

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I then glued a layer of cloth (the same size as the plastic) underneath, and a much larger layer of cloth over the top. I used a blunt knife to stretch the fabric around the battens/plastic strips to have a realistic shape. A long length of extra material was left on the side facing the inside of the interior. This was then split and rolled up underneath as a real one would be (they're made to unroll and cover the driver's seat when you're parked).

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I cut a general outline around the tonneau cover, keeping roughly 0.5-0.75cm extra material. It then mounts between the die-cast body and plastic interior piece's rear shelf, with the plastic battens maintaining a slightly domed shape. I also painted rivets/snaps around the edge.

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On a real Healey the tonneau cover would mount directly to the body, but I do take some artistic liberties. I might eventually make another one with narrower/more correct battens.

New wheel Mock-up. Thoughts? :scratchhead:

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[KRAFTIG]
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Posts: 32785
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:08 am
Location: Canada
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Re: HealeyWork MKII BT7

Post by [KRAFTIG] » Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:45 am

Looking goo, thanks for sharing. I think the tire requires a little more rim and less rubber. Just my opinion.

Malscar
Posts: 106
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:26 am

Re: HealeyWork MKII BT7

Post by Malscar » Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:22 am

Nice start. I would suggest you sand off the mold lines on the radiator and use filler to fill in the sink holes. Then paint, weather etc. If you don't it detracts from the great work you have done on the engine.

HealeyWorks
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 7:48 pm
Location: Canada

Re: HealeyWork MKII BT7

Post by HealeyWorks » Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:32 am

Thank you for the suggestion! That does sound like a good idea :)

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