290hp Six Pack V8 with a 4-speed transmission.In 1970 a total of 2400 Challenger T/A's were built and only 966 of those were equipped with a Hemi pistol grip 4 speed transmission.
Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
Re: Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
Way kewl! You're going to start to make me collect classic hot rods! Look at the size of that motor!
Re: Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
I forgot the write this under the photo of the engine...........Civic owner, don't ever think about it
I hate Honda
I hate Honda
Re: Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
Go ahead there's a lot of cool car in the 1970's look those engine[KRAFTIG] wrote:Way kewl! You're going to start to make me collect classic hot rods! Look at the size of that motor!
Re: Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
I know there is, but this isn't a lot of cool space to display them
Re: Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
Congrat for this nice add
The Challenger T/A was the same model as the AAR Cuda, both had the same 340 c.i. whit the 6 pack (3 x 2 barrels carburators).
The Challenger T/A was the same model as the AAR Cuda, both had the same 340 c.i. whit the 6 pack (3 x 2 barrels carburators).
Re: Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
Nice add...I have both a Challenger T/A & AAR Cuda from Highway 61. Packed with details & occasionally some QC issues, but still really nice models.
Re: Highway 61 Dodge Challenger T/A 1970
This is a beautiful model! I love the gator top.
I read on other forums that the low rear suspension.
For the following I corrected him by:
Sorry, I bad English. Google translator to my help
So I lifted the rear part
I took it apart the body and chassis. 6 screws on the bottom. The nose of the apron panel and a stern plate under the bumper have to choose carefully!
You need two pieces snapped leaf spring:
Will look at two of the fixing of the rear suspension with coil springs.
These models provide cushioning. Only the screws completely to the frame being clamped. Thus, they can not move, and the stern sat down model.
Here is one screw. The other is already uninstalled:
The indicated (arrow) bore should move the rear axle:
The screws must be loosened and adjusted the height of the rump.
Fully screwed in the screw, the wheel drum approx. 3 mm in length, in the wheel:
I have approx. 6-7 mm between active.
It will not be possible because the screws will not hold:
The result before and after:
In the end it has to be mounted on the chassis and body of the leaf springs back together. You might even then have to set the height, the rear end of the leaf springs do not go into the hole. I hope has worked well, and the Google translator to understand my writing was...
I read on other forums that the low rear suspension.
For the following I corrected him by:
Sorry, I bad English. Google translator to my help
So I lifted the rear part
I took it apart the body and chassis. 6 screws on the bottom. The nose of the apron panel and a stern plate under the bumper have to choose carefully!
You need two pieces snapped leaf spring:
Will look at two of the fixing of the rear suspension with coil springs.
These models provide cushioning. Only the screws completely to the frame being clamped. Thus, they can not move, and the stern sat down model.
Here is one screw. The other is already uninstalled:
The indicated (arrow) bore should move the rear axle:
The screws must be loosened and adjusted the height of the rump.
Fully screwed in the screw, the wheel drum approx. 3 mm in length, in the wheel:
I have approx. 6-7 mm between active.
It will not be possible because the screws will not hold:
The result before and after:
In the end it has to be mounted on the chassis and body of the leaf springs back together. You might even then have to set the height, the rear end of the leaf springs do not go into the hole. I hope has worked well, and the Google translator to understand my writing was...